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Identifying Fibers and Fabrics
2019/08/02
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If you shop the remnant racks or flat-fold tables, or you shop in a venue other than a fullservice fabric store with labeled bolts, how do you know what fiber you're getting in that fabric you love? Without an inkling of fiber content, it's difficult to know how to sew, press and care for your finished project.
Testing：
Textile chemists and laboratory experts are able to identify certain fibers by their burning characteristics, and you can do the same tests to determine the content of your UFOs. The burn test works for both natural and man-made fibers, but it cannot be used with certainty to identify blended fibers within a fabric.
Ready, Set...
It's important to do a burn test in a wellventilated area to avoid inhaling potentially toxic fumes. At minimum, open some windows, or better yet, do the test outside on a calm day and avoid inhaling the fumes from the burning fibers.
1、Pre-wash the mystery fabric to remove any finishes that may affect the burn characteristics. Cut fabric swatches for testing approximately 2" square.
2、Use long tweezers to hold the swatches you burn.
3、Use a non-flammable container to place under the burning swatch—a large ashtray or glass dish will work, as will a metal baking pan.
4、Use a lighter, an unscented candle or a fireplace starter to create a small flame.
5、Keep water nearby in the event of a flare-up, or do the testing near a sink.
6、If you have long hair, tie it back out of the way of the flame.
Finding Fire
Firmly grip the mystery swatch with the tweezers and gently ease one edge into the open flame. Avoid putting metal tweezers into the flame, as the heated metal can cause burns.
Move the swatch into the flame and quickly out of it. If the fabric is flaming, blow it out.
As you test, make note of the following for identification:
1、While in the flame, does the fabric melt readily, smolder, or extinguish itself?
2、When removed from the flame, what happens to the fabric?
3、Does the fabric form a melted bead, or does it leave ash?
4、Does the burnt fabric produce a distinct odor or smoke color?
The answers to these questions will help with the identification.
Fiber：
The first narrowing process involves discerning animal, vegetable or synthetic fiber categories.
In general, animal fibers (wool, mohair, silk,etc.) burn and curl away from the flame and smell like burning hair. They're selfextinguishing when removed from the flame and leave a dull black hollow bead that's easily crushed.
Vegetable fibers, like cotton, rayon, linen,hemp, jute, etc., burn but don't pull away from the flame. They smell like burning paper, leaves or wood, and leave a fine gray ash. Some glow before they actually go out.
Synthetic fibers, like acetate, acrylic, nylon,polyester and spandex, melt and burn,curling away from the flame. All exude a chemical smell of some sort and leave various melted beads. See the chart for specific fiber characteristics.
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